by: Emma Snow
The Emperor Penguin is most noted for its size, reaching up to four feet in height, making it the tallest penguin of its species. Its stomach is white and its wings and back are black, lending its trademark "tuxedo look." Although penguins have wings they do not fly, but swim through the water at an average speed of four to six miles per hour, with possible bursts of up to twelve miles per hour. Although water mixed with cold temperatures causes humans to experience hypothermia and even death, penguins have a preen gland which secretes an oil that they use to coat their feathers with so water will run off of them. Emperor Penguins live in the coldest region of any other penguin on earth. They not only survive, but reproduce and thrive where other penguins cannot. Adult Emperor Penguins travel about sixty miles into Antarctica for breeding season. Although cold temperatures are a threat to the survival of other penguins and their eggs, the Emperor Penguin has characteristics that allow them to keep warm, notwithstanding below freezing temperatures and high winds. After searching for a mate, the female lays a single egg in the months of May or June. After laying the egg, the female will carefully pass the egg to the male to incubate until it hatches. This process is carefully executed so the egg does not have any contact with the ice where it would immediately die voiding the couple's attempt at reproduction that year. When the male successfully receives the egg he incubates it above his feet in a flap of skin called a brood pouch. In order to stay warm in the extreme temperatures, Emperor Penguins form large groups and huddle together. They instinctively know when to move from the center of this huddle toward the outer edges to give each penguin the warmth of the middle. This process allows for them to survive the brutal temperatures in the Antarctic. After the male has the egg, the female is free to travel to get food. She returns after about two months. After her arrival she is able to regurgitate the food for the young chick when it hatches. If the chick is born before the female returns, the male is able to produce a milky substance from his esophagus to keep his young alive. When the female returns to care for her young, the male is then free to go in search of food. While it may seem unnatural for a species to reproduce in such extreme weather conditions, in actuality winter is the ideal season for reproduction because there is less competition for food. Emperor Penguin chicks are larger than other penguin species and an adequate diet is essential for their survival. Only in the harsh days of winter is there enough food for them. Emperor Penguins diet consists mainly of cephlapods, such as octopus and squid, but they also eat krill and fish. Their threat for survival is not only freezing in the cold temperatures, but also natural predators such as sea lions, Orca Whales and sharks. Although global warming has raised concerns for Emperor Penguins, there is thought to be an estimated 350,000 of them in the world. Survival in Antarctica seems impossible, yet the Emperor Penguin continues to thrive in these freezing temperatures. Their physical characteristics, instincts and socialization allow for them to continue to reproduce and thrive in a climate that would otherwise be deadly.
About The Author
Emma Snow has always adored wild animals. Emma provides content for Wildlife Animals http://www.wildlife-animals.com and Riding Stable http://www.riding-stable.com.
Does Your Horse's Saddle Fit?
by: Ron Petracek
Is your horse exhibiting uncharacteristic performance or behavior issues? Well then, check his saddle. Badly fitting saddles account for a vast array of issues in the horse. Yet they often go undetected, either because people don't recognize the signs and symptoms of an improperly fitting saddle, or because they have no idea how to fix the problem. This lack of knowledge can hurt our horses physically, diminish their ability to reach their full potential, and even label them as unpleasant or dangerous characters. Of course, saddle fit can't be blamed for all behavior and performance issues in the horse, but it is something that should always be considered. If you don't have the knowledge to determine whether your horse's saddle fits, enlist the help of a competent saddle fitter right away. Signs, Signs, Everywhere Signs How do you know if your horse's saddle is uncomfortable? Easy. What does he have to say about it? Sure, your horse won't be able to communicate with you verbally. But his body language should tell you all you need to know if you take the time to listen. Ask yourself the following questions: * Are the muscles in the top loin overly developed? * Is the lower part of your horse's neck thicker than the top part because he hollows his back? * Are the muscles in the hollow region behind my horse's shoulder diminished or atrophied from the nerves and muscles being pinched? * When relaxing, does my horse have a dropped or sway back? * Is there swelling or heat under the saddle area upon removal of the saddle? * Is there raw or rubbed skin anywhere in the saddle area? * Are there any white marks or bare patches on his back? Once you've taken a good look at your horse, ask yourself the following questions about his behavior: * Does he seem stiff? * Does he hold his head high and stiff, and does he seem unwilling to accept the bit or rider's aids? * Does he seem unwilling? * Is he hard to catch? * Does he jump around when being groomed, especially when you are grooming the back area? * Does he hollow his back, buck, or move away when saddled? * Does he dislike being girthed? * Does he jig when being mounted? * Does he toss his head while under saddle? * Does he refuse to walk calmly on a long rein? * Is he irritable in general? * Does he have a hard time walking up or down hills? * Are his gaits uneven? * Does he have difficulty with one lead over another? * Is he stiff on corners, bends, or circles? * Does he have trouble getting down and back up again? If you answered yes to more than one or two questions do your horse a big favor. Don't ride him under saddle again until a qualified vet or chiropractor has evaluated him. If your horse is diagnosed with back problems it is important to note that the saddle is not always to blame. However, taking a good constructive look at your saddle and how it fits your horse is a good place to start. Good Saddle Fit A saddle should fit both horse and rider, but don't think that just because you find it comfy your horse does too. How do you know if your horse's saddle fits? Check out the following tips: * Sitting in the saddle with a relaxed seat and legs, check to make sure you have enough room to put your hand on your thigh between your legs and the pommel. You should also be able to fit the width of your hand between the back of your body and the rear arch. With the stirrups at the normal length, there should be an imaginary line gong through your shoulder, to your hip, to the center of your horse's balance, and finally, to your heel. So now we know the saddle fits you! * But does it fit your horse? First of all, it should never interfere with your horse's movement in any way. There must be no contact between the saddle and the spine, which means you should see a clear channel of daylight down the spine from withers to loins. * Check the width and length. With your weight in the saddle you should be able to fit two-and-a-half or three fingers between the pommel and the horse's withers. If there is space for four fingers the tree is too narrow. If there is space for two, it is too wide. Check to see how far the saddle goes toward your horse's hip bone. It should not be so long that it rubs the hip. * The saddle should be stable and should never rock back and forth. * Never commit to a saddle before taking it on a lengthy ride. There is no substitute for riding in it when it comes to finding a saddle that fits well A comfortable saddle keeps your horse healthy in both mind and body. Now watch how far the two of you go!
About The Author
Ron Petracek is the founder of Equine Internets vast 15 site classified and social network. You can view its amazing size here Http://www.equineinternet.com/network.php or to further your equine habit please visit our forum by clicking here http://www.horsechitchat.com/equineforums and start posting Need to sell a horse or tack? place a free ad here http://www.click4equine.com and always the barn door in left open on purpose.
What is Good Conformation?
by: Ron Petracek
Conformation—the way a horse is put together—will determine not only how sound a horse remains throughout his life, but will also determine to what extent he will excel at his particular discipline. While some points of conformation vary with the type of horse and what job he is doing, there are some general rules of conformation that most horsemen agree on. Feet Feet should be large enough to support the horse and his weight, and the hoof wall should be hard but not brittle. The front feet and the back feet should appear to be symmetrical from all angles. The sole should be slightly concave, and heels should be even where they join the sole. Legs Legs should be straight. Legs that are out of alignment can result in soundness problems, as the forces that travel up the leg of the horse as he moves will affect other parts of the body, depending upon where legs deviate. Legs should also be symmetrical, with no bumps or bulges. Each pair of legs should also match each other. Joints Good joints are imperative to any horse who performs. Joints should have the correct axis, and they should be symmetrical, free of lumps, cool to the touch, and should be in proportion to the size of the horse. If one joint seems too large it should be examined for injury. If all joints seem too large the horse should be examined by a veterinarian for nutritional or metabolic problems. From the front view, a line dropped from the point of the shoulder to the ground should bisect the knee, fetlock, and hoof. From the side view, the line from the front of the fetlock, along the top of the pastern, and continuing along the front of the foot to the ground should be straight. Shoulder Good shoulder conformation will depend upon what the horse is being used for, as shoulder slope and how long the shoulder is varies with breed type and use. As a general rule of thumb, horses used for speed should have a long, sloping shoulder, while those used for power have more upright shoulders. Withers Since withers are what keeps a well in place, any ridden horse needs to have appropriate withers. Horses with flat withers, often called mutton withers, often have difficulty being ridden up and down hills, but can sometimes fare well on the flat. Poorly conformed withers can cause pain in the ridden horse and can lead to unsoundness. Hip The angle and length of the hip should match the angle and hip of the shoulder. While short hip lengths rarely cause unsoundness they can negatively impact speed and power. Back and Neck The long back versus short back debate continues depending upon the use of the horse. While long-backed horses do tire more easily, they can be more comfortable to ride. Long-backed horses can also excel at jumping because of the scope the long back allows them. Long backs also allow more movement in the horse's legs, which is why many long-backed horses excel at driving. The length, shape, and way a horse's neck connects to the chest and the back will vary depending upon the breed and use of the horse. Horses who run need longer necks, while horses who show in park or pleasure classes often benefit from aesthetically pleasing upright necks. Eyes Horses need big, well-placed eyes. Horses with small eyes may suffer from impaired vision or have a medical problem. Eyes should not be set too far toward the sides of the head, otherwise peculiar fields of vision are sure to be an issue. Nostrils The nostrils should be open and symmetrical, to allow for maximum air intake. Horses with extremely dished heads or thick necks sometimes have difficulty taking in the right amount of air despite nostril size, so make sure you take these things into consideration.
About The Author
Ron Petracek is the founder of Equine Internets vast 15 site classified and social network. You can view its amazing size here Http://www.equineinternet.com/network.php or to further your equine habit please visit our forum by clicking here http://www.horsechitchat.com/equineforums and start posting Need to sell a horse or tack? place a free ad here http://www.click4equine.com and always the barn door in left open on purpose.
Conformation—the way a horse is put together—will determine not only how sound a horse remains throughout his life, but will also determine to what extent he will excel at his particular discipline. While some points of conformation vary with the type of horse and what job he is doing, there are some general rules of conformation that most horsemen agree on. Feet Feet should be large enough to support the horse and his weight, and the hoof wall should be hard but not brittle. The front feet and the back feet should appear to be symmetrical from all angles. The sole should be slightly concave, and heels should be even where they join the sole. Legs Legs should be straight. Legs that are out of alignment can result in soundness problems, as the forces that travel up the leg of the horse as he moves will affect other parts of the body, depending upon where legs deviate. Legs should also be symmetrical, with no bumps or bulges. Each pair of legs should also match each other. Joints Good joints are imperative to any horse who performs. Joints should have the correct axis, and they should be symmetrical, free of lumps, cool to the touch, and should be in proportion to the size of the horse. If one joint seems too large it should be examined for injury. If all joints seem too large the horse should be examined by a veterinarian for nutritional or metabolic problems. From the front view, a line dropped from the point of the shoulder to the ground should bisect the knee, fetlock, and hoof. From the side view, the line from the front of the fetlock, along the top of the pastern, and continuing along the front of the foot to the ground should be straight. Shoulder Good shoulder conformation will depend upon what the horse is being used for, as shoulder slope and how long the shoulder is varies with breed type and use. As a general rule of thumb, horses used for speed should have a long, sloping shoulder, while those used for power have more upright shoulders. Withers Since withers are what keeps a well in place, any ridden horse needs to have appropriate withers. Horses with flat withers, often called mutton withers, often have difficulty being ridden up and down hills, but can sometimes fare well on the flat. Poorly conformed withers can cause pain in the ridden horse and can lead to unsoundness. Hip The angle and length of the hip should match the angle and hip of the shoulder. While short hip lengths rarely cause unsoundness they can negatively impact speed and power. Back and Neck The long back versus short back debate continues depending upon the use of the horse. While long-backed horses do tire more easily, they can be more comfortable to ride. Long-backed horses can also excel at jumping because of the scope the long back allows them. Long backs also allow more movement in the horse's legs, which is why many long-backed horses excel at driving. The length, shape, and way a horse's neck connects to the chest and the back will vary depending upon the breed and use of the horse. Horses who run need longer necks, while horses who show in park or pleasure classes often benefit from aesthetically pleasing upright necks. Eyes Horses need big, well-placed eyes. Horses with small eyes may suffer from impaired vision or have a medical problem. Eyes should not be set too far toward the sides of the head, otherwise peculiar fields of vision are sure to be an issue. Nostrils The nostrils should be open and symmetrical, to allow for maximum air intake. Horses with extremely dished heads or thick necks sometimes have difficulty taking in the right amount of air despite nostril size, so make sure you take these things into consideration.
About The Author
Ron Petracek is the founder of Equine Internets vast 15 site classified and social network. You can view its amazing size here Http://www.equineinternet.com/network.php or to further your equine habit please visit our forum by clicking here http://www.horsechitchat.com/equineforums and start posting Need to sell a horse or tack? place a free ad here http://www.click4equine.com and always the barn door in left open on purpose.
Tips On Choosing The Right Sized Dog Bed
by: Jerry Brecken
Have you ever noticed how your pet dog loves sleeping beside you in your bed? You frequently tell your dog to get off but it just wont listen to you. Yes, you adore your pet, there's no question about it. However, you just can't let your dog sleep beside you no matter how adorable it may seem. Admit it, the way your dog snores and drools in your bed really keeps you up at night. In situations like this, you should finally get your dog its own dog bed. Getting your beloved pet its own place for sleeping is as essential as a man having his own bed. However, you can not just choose any dog bed products for your pet. There are some things that you need to consider first such as the right size of the dog bed. Keep in mind that it's more comfortable for dogs to lie on a bed that is just the right size for them. The following are some helpful tips when it comes to choosing the right sized dog bed: 1. Consider the size and breed of your pet dog first. Since you are going to choose a bed for your dog, always keep in mind the physique of your beloved dog. If you own a small dog such as a Teacup Poodle, then of course, you will be looking for a small-sized dog bed. However, if your pet dog is a large one such as a St. Bernard, then you are set to look for a large-sized dog bed. Also, if your canine pet is still a puppy, then you have to choose an adjustable bed for your dog to grow up with. Bear in mind that dogs have different life spans as compared to humans. This means that dogs grow up faster than we do. 2. Make sure that the dog bed product you choose has enough space so your dog can move easily in it. Sleeping on a dog bed should be a soothing moment for your pet and not an exhausting one. Your dog must be able to fit in the bed yet still has enough space to stretch its body. Take note that space is what pets are usually looking for in a dog crib. Dogs are hyperactive and have the tendency to move around even while they sleep. Also, there might be instances when pet dogs other than your own, such as the ones owned by your neighbors or friends, may drop by at your place and share the dog bed with your pet. Make them as comfortable as possible by providing a dog bed with the size just right enough for them to share together. 3. Know your dog well. If you really know your dog, then shopping for the right sized dog bed will not be that hard to do. Everything will have to depend on your pet dog's preferences and needs. When buying a dog bed for your pet, it is better to ask specialty stores for a sleep trial using your prospect dog bed product. This way, you will know the most suitable size of dog bed that best fit your beloved pet dog.
About The Author
Jerry Brecken is a writer for dogbedsforyou.com, a website where you can choose among the varieties of pet supplies such as dog beds for your beloved pet. For more information about dog beds and accessories, visit http://www.dogbedsforyou.com.
Have you ever noticed how your pet dog loves sleeping beside you in your bed? You frequently tell your dog to get off but it just wont listen to you. Yes, you adore your pet, there's no question about it. However, you just can't let your dog sleep beside you no matter how adorable it may seem. Admit it, the way your dog snores and drools in your bed really keeps you up at night. In situations like this, you should finally get your dog its own dog bed. Getting your beloved pet its own place for sleeping is as essential as a man having his own bed. However, you can not just choose any dog bed products for your pet. There are some things that you need to consider first such as the right size of the dog bed. Keep in mind that it's more comfortable for dogs to lie on a bed that is just the right size for them. The following are some helpful tips when it comes to choosing the right sized dog bed: 1. Consider the size and breed of your pet dog first. Since you are going to choose a bed for your dog, always keep in mind the physique of your beloved dog. If you own a small dog such as a Teacup Poodle, then of course, you will be looking for a small-sized dog bed. However, if your pet dog is a large one such as a St. Bernard, then you are set to look for a large-sized dog bed. Also, if your canine pet is still a puppy, then you have to choose an adjustable bed for your dog to grow up with. Bear in mind that dogs have different life spans as compared to humans. This means that dogs grow up faster than we do. 2. Make sure that the dog bed product you choose has enough space so your dog can move easily in it. Sleeping on a dog bed should be a soothing moment for your pet and not an exhausting one. Your dog must be able to fit in the bed yet still has enough space to stretch its body. Take note that space is what pets are usually looking for in a dog crib. Dogs are hyperactive and have the tendency to move around even while they sleep. Also, there might be instances when pet dogs other than your own, such as the ones owned by your neighbors or friends, may drop by at your place and share the dog bed with your pet. Make them as comfortable as possible by providing a dog bed with the size just right enough for them to share together. 3. Know your dog well. If you really know your dog, then shopping for the right sized dog bed will not be that hard to do. Everything will have to depend on your pet dog's preferences and needs. When buying a dog bed for your pet, it is better to ask specialty stores for a sleep trial using your prospect dog bed product. This way, you will know the most suitable size of dog bed that best fit your beloved pet dog.
About The Author
Jerry Brecken is a writer for dogbedsforyou.com, a website where you can choose among the varieties of pet supplies such as dog beds for your beloved pet. For more information about dog beds and accessories, visit http://www.dogbedsforyou.com.
Characteristics of Reputable Breeders
by: Keane Wade
The first challenge that you will face if you are planning of obtaining a golden retriever pup is its source. As a matter of fact, it is somewhat impossible to determine whether or not the golden retriever pup will grow healthy, no matter what you do. In order to assume that your golden retriever pup will grow up healthy, the breeder that your pup came from must have good reputation. There are few factors that you must consider in choosing the right breeder of golden retrievers. It is essential that you must thoroughly think each of your choices. Below are some of the few factors that must take into consideration. These will help you choose the right breeder. Backyard Golden Retriever Breeder These types of golden retriever breeders are regarded as a poor option in selecting a puppy. Mostly, these types of breeder are people who possess few golden retrievers. These types of breeders realized that it is fun breeding their female golden retriever because of its puppies while some of them breed their canine pet once or twice before opting to spay their canine. They mostly do not care on the quality of litters and care for them. They mostly mind the money that they would get in selling the litters. Basically, most of these types of breeders have either little or no knowledge on the basics of breeding golden retrievers. Even a few of them have less knowledge on how to properly care their canine pet. Mostly, they have no knowledge regarding the problems in breeding golden retriever and would mostly care even less. All they want is to make their canines produce litters for additional income. They would usually sell the litters as soon as the puppies are bred. Dealers or Pet Shops Pet shops or pet dealers are the in fact considered as the worst place to obtain a golden retriever puppy, that is because the puppies that they sell are bred or brought up poorly and are mostly bred on poor environments. Pet shops consider the golden retriever puppies as merchandises that must be profited. Pet shops mostly do not care on the quality of the puppy; they usually care about the quantity. And because of the way the golden retriever puppies are bred and brought up, they usually make quite bit of income. Mostly, they spend small amount on the breeding and the caring of the litters. Basically, pet shops rely on “impulse buying”. This is done by simply not giving the buyer a sufficient amount of time to assess the golden retrievers that they sell. So if you are looking for a golden retriever pup this is not a good place to get one. Hobby Breeders This is probably the best way to obtain a golden retriever pup, mostly because hobby breeders of golden retrievers are trustworthy and committed in caring and quality of the golden retriever litters. And because of that, hobby breeders care more on the quality side and nothing else. Mostly, they will assist you in raising the best golden retriever pup because they dedicate themselves in raising the best one. So if you want to have the best golden retriever pup, all you need is to visit a hobby breeder, because hobby golden retriever breeders understand their responsibility in each and every one of their puppies. Hobby breeders seldom breed poor quality pups. If you obtained your golden retriever pup from these types of source, then you are guaranteed that you have a healthy pup.
About The Author
Keane Wade is a writer for http://www.the-golden-retriever-guide.com, where you can find tips in how to take care of your first golden retriever.
The first challenge that you will face if you are planning of obtaining a golden retriever pup is its source. As a matter of fact, it is somewhat impossible to determine whether or not the golden retriever pup will grow healthy, no matter what you do. In order to assume that your golden retriever pup will grow up healthy, the breeder that your pup came from must have good reputation. There are few factors that you must consider in choosing the right breeder of golden retrievers. It is essential that you must thoroughly think each of your choices. Below are some of the few factors that must take into consideration. These will help you choose the right breeder. Backyard Golden Retriever Breeder These types of golden retriever breeders are regarded as a poor option in selecting a puppy. Mostly, these types of breeder are people who possess few golden retrievers. These types of breeders realized that it is fun breeding their female golden retriever because of its puppies while some of them breed their canine pet once or twice before opting to spay their canine. They mostly do not care on the quality of litters and care for them. They mostly mind the money that they would get in selling the litters. Basically, most of these types of breeders have either little or no knowledge on the basics of breeding golden retrievers. Even a few of them have less knowledge on how to properly care their canine pet. Mostly, they have no knowledge regarding the problems in breeding golden retriever and would mostly care even less. All they want is to make their canines produce litters for additional income. They would usually sell the litters as soon as the puppies are bred. Dealers or Pet Shops Pet shops or pet dealers are the in fact considered as the worst place to obtain a golden retriever puppy, that is because the puppies that they sell are bred or brought up poorly and are mostly bred on poor environments. Pet shops consider the golden retriever puppies as merchandises that must be profited. Pet shops mostly do not care on the quality of the puppy; they usually care about the quantity. And because of the way the golden retriever puppies are bred and brought up, they usually make quite bit of income. Mostly, they spend small amount on the breeding and the caring of the litters. Basically, pet shops rely on “impulse buying”. This is done by simply not giving the buyer a sufficient amount of time to assess the golden retrievers that they sell. So if you are looking for a golden retriever pup this is not a good place to get one. Hobby Breeders This is probably the best way to obtain a golden retriever pup, mostly because hobby breeders of golden retrievers are trustworthy and committed in caring and quality of the golden retriever litters. And because of that, hobby breeders care more on the quality side and nothing else. Mostly, they will assist you in raising the best golden retriever pup because they dedicate themselves in raising the best one. So if you want to have the best golden retriever pup, all you need is to visit a hobby breeder, because hobby golden retriever breeders understand their responsibility in each and every one of their puppies. Hobby breeders seldom breed poor quality pups. If you obtained your golden retriever pup from these types of source, then you are guaranteed that you have a healthy pup.
About The Author
Keane Wade is a writer for http://www.the-golden-retriever-guide.com, where you can find tips in how to take care of your first golden retriever.
Adult Cats are Fun Too - Adopt An Older Cat
by: Kate Tilmouth
You’ve finally made the decision to adopt a cat, you’ve dreamt about it for quite some time. Visualising your cute new little kitten playing around the floor and looking up at you with those big baby blues. What could possibly go wrong, after all it’s only a tiny kitten. But have your really thought about how much time, effort and trouble a kitten really is. A kitten is packed full of energy and curiosity and will cry for attention, scratch the furniture, bite and urinate everywhere until it is litter box trained, and will run around the house getting into all sorts of scrapes and trouble. And it’s up to you to look after them 24/7. If you’ve got the time and dedication to look after a kitten, great, but if not, why not think about adopting an adult cat. A lot of potential adopters seem to think of an adult cat as second best, as if they are defective or worn out like a second hand car. That’s just not the case. Most adult cats have found themselves in animal shelters from no fault of their own. They may have out lived their owner, their owners may have moved to somewhere that doesn’t allow pets, become lost or someone in the family may have become allergic to them. The reasons are far to numerous to list them all. The cats themselves are perfectly healthy animals, bristling with fun and energy and simply looking for a caring loving home. Adopting an adult cat has many advantages. Remember an older cat has already developed its personality. So you will know what kind of pet they will be and whether or not they will suit your family. Many people go for the cute little kitten; only to find out that they grow into a very shy and non-playful cat that likes to spend all it’s time away from the family. That’s fine if that’s what you want, but too many people decide that this is not for them and returns the cat to the shelter. Rejection is a very harsh punishment for the cat just because you didn’t take the time to think about what sort of cat would be the right pet for your family. An older cat will also be less demanding of your time than a kitten and will require less supervision, well after the first few weeks anyway. They will be able to spend time alone when you are out of the house without getting into too much trouble and hopefully will already be litter trained. There are also many benefits for older owners in adopting an adult cat. Adult cats are much calmer and more likely to want to spend some quiet time sitting on your lap for strokes and purring. Studies have shown that cats can have a real health benefit for humans in reducing their stress levels and blood pressure. I can’t image an energetic curious kitten being as good for your stress levels somehow. Many worry about health problems and vet bills for the older cat. Usually when you are adopting a cat from an animal shelter they will be able to let you know if the cat has any underlining medical conditions and what it is likely to cost. Many will even provide you with free medical treatment for your cat if they over 10 years old as an incentive for more of the older cats to be re-homed. Cats can live well into their late teens and even early twenties with all the advances in food nutrition and medical treatments. So that 12 year old cat waiting in the animal shelter for a good home is still a good bet and will still be able to provide you with many years of fun and love. Our own cat is now 14 years old and still behaves like a playful youngster and keeps us entertained for hours. It can be a very rewarding experience to adopt an older cat, not only because of the pleasure they will give you over the years but also in the knowledge that you have provided a loving home for what was probably a very frightened and confused cat, who had no idea why he had lost his family.
About The Author
Kate Tilmouth You will find more cat health and cat care advice on Kates website http://www.our-happy-cat.com A feline friendly community full of advice and fun to make sure you have a happy cat and a happy you. Copyright 2007 Kate Tilmouth
What The Shih Tzu Owner Should Know About Grooming Part I
by: Connie Limon
The show dog Shih Tzu owner who does not want to groom his Shih Tzu himself should know what must be done and when. This knowledge is necessary so he/she can take the Shih Tzu to a professional groomer or handler for show grooming at the right time. All Shih Tzu owners should know several basic grooming techniques. It is very important to use the right equipment. There are many different types of brushes, combs, clipper blades and other tools. If you use the wrong brush, brushing technique, comb or clipper blade you can easily break Shih Tzu’s hair or give the Shih Tzu brush burn. Some knowledge of anatomy is useful. You will need to maintain proper control of the Shih Tzu while grooming. Control points are used to alert the Shih Tzu to what the groomer wants him to do. Shih Tzu puppies are especially important for the groomer to control properly while grooming. Take care not to frighten the Shih Tzu during early grooming sessions. The grooming sessions should be fun for both the Shih Tzu puppy and the owner. Introduce your new Shih Tzu puppy to grooming as soon as you bring him home. At the young age of 8 weeks Shih Tzu puppies usually learn proper grooming manners quickly if they are handled properly. Aspects of grooming that contribute to a Shih Tzu’s good health: 1. To prevent ear infection keep the Shih Tzu’s ears clean of hair. 2. Remove excess wax promptly. This can be done with a piece of cotton that has been dipped in alcohol. 3. Be careful not to pry deep in the ear or stick anything small into the ear. If there is reason to do so, the Shih Tzu should be taken to a veterinarian. 4. Keep toenails trimmed and filed. This helps the Shih Tzu to walk easier and more comfortable as well as keeps him from snagging furniture or scratching owner’s legs and arms. 5. Anal glands should be expressed to avoid discomfort to the dog by your veterinarian if you groom your Shih Tzu at home. The professional groomer can do this if you have your Shih Tzu professionally groomed. 6. All Shih Tzu owners should have some knowledge of ticks, fleas, and lice and know what to do if the Shih Tzu becomes infested with any of these parasites. Shih Tzu can very easily be groomed completely at home if you learn some basic grooming techniques, use the right equipment and have some knowledge of anatomy of your Shih Tzu. This article is FREE to publish with resource box.
About The Author
Connie Limon I raise Shih Tzu. Purchase Shih Tzu puppies and sign up for FREE newsletter at http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com Pet Care articles at http://smalldogs2.com/ShihTzuCastle For a variety of FREE reprint articles visit http://www.camelotarticles.com
The show dog Shih Tzu owner who does not want to groom his Shih Tzu himself should know what must be done and when. This knowledge is necessary so he/she can take the Shih Tzu to a professional groomer or handler for show grooming at the right time. All Shih Tzu owners should know several basic grooming techniques. It is very important to use the right equipment. There are many different types of brushes, combs, clipper blades and other tools. If you use the wrong brush, brushing technique, comb or clipper blade you can easily break Shih Tzu’s hair or give the Shih Tzu brush burn. Some knowledge of anatomy is useful. You will need to maintain proper control of the Shih Tzu while grooming. Control points are used to alert the Shih Tzu to what the groomer wants him to do. Shih Tzu puppies are especially important for the groomer to control properly while grooming. Take care not to frighten the Shih Tzu during early grooming sessions. The grooming sessions should be fun for both the Shih Tzu puppy and the owner. Introduce your new Shih Tzu puppy to grooming as soon as you bring him home. At the young age of 8 weeks Shih Tzu puppies usually learn proper grooming manners quickly if they are handled properly. Aspects of grooming that contribute to a Shih Tzu’s good health: 1. To prevent ear infection keep the Shih Tzu’s ears clean of hair. 2. Remove excess wax promptly. This can be done with a piece of cotton that has been dipped in alcohol. 3. Be careful not to pry deep in the ear or stick anything small into the ear. If there is reason to do so, the Shih Tzu should be taken to a veterinarian. 4. Keep toenails trimmed and filed. This helps the Shih Tzu to walk easier and more comfortable as well as keeps him from snagging furniture or scratching owner’s legs and arms. 5. Anal glands should be expressed to avoid discomfort to the dog by your veterinarian if you groom your Shih Tzu at home. The professional groomer can do this if you have your Shih Tzu professionally groomed. 6. All Shih Tzu owners should have some knowledge of ticks, fleas, and lice and know what to do if the Shih Tzu becomes infested with any of these parasites. Shih Tzu can very easily be groomed completely at home if you learn some basic grooming techniques, use the right equipment and have some knowledge of anatomy of your Shih Tzu. This article is FREE to publish with resource box.
About The Author
Connie Limon I raise Shih Tzu. Purchase Shih Tzu puppies and sign up for FREE newsletter at http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com Pet Care articles at http://smalldogs2.com/ShihTzuCastle For a variety of FREE reprint articles visit http://www.camelotarticles.com
Hunting Dogs
by: Graham Taylor
How does one choose good hunting dogs without getting stung? Many dog breeders are like horse traders—you get what you get, and that isn't what was listed. So a dog breeder's reputation, letters of reputation or phone calls, and looking at siblings or mother and father of the dog means a lot when looking for good hunting dogs. Make sure they have some form of guarantee and for how long they guarantee the puppy or dog. But what is good for one hunter may not mean the same for another, so make sure you know what you want before going out and looking. Do you want versatile good hunting dogs for all-purpose hunting, or one that is excellent at squirrel hunting or coon hunting? Look at where they will be living the remaining time—will it it he be a family member? Make sure the breed you want is one you have information on and have done your homework on. Just because grandpa had one doesn't mean you know what you need to know regarding the purchase of good hunting dogs. Good hunting dogs need to be disease from and have clean genetic lines, regardless the breed. Make sure routine worming has been done as a puppy—which has usually been done from two weeks. Also, look at their shot records—did they receive a two-week puppy shot series with only two weeks between them, beginning around five or six weeks? Once the puppy is weaned from its mother, its immune system becomes compromised, and it is up to the breeder to maintain that system up to eight weeks of age when it leaves the next. A breeder who sells before then is not worth his/her weight in salt. Good hunting dogs mean that—a good hunting dog, not one that is haphazardly bred to make a quick buck. Georgia is famous for good hunting dogs, as most Georgia hunters think more of their dogs than anywhere else, but make sure you don't get a bad breeder anyway. More info http://www.hunting-pro.com
About The Author
Graham Taylor author of http://hunting-pro.com
How does one choose good hunting dogs without getting stung? Many dog breeders are like horse traders—you get what you get, and that isn't what was listed. So a dog breeder's reputation, letters of reputation or phone calls, and looking at siblings or mother and father of the dog means a lot when looking for good hunting dogs. Make sure they have some form of guarantee and for how long they guarantee the puppy or dog. But what is good for one hunter may not mean the same for another, so make sure you know what you want before going out and looking. Do you want versatile good hunting dogs for all-purpose hunting, or one that is excellent at squirrel hunting or coon hunting? Look at where they will be living the remaining time—will it it he be a family member? Make sure the breed you want is one you have information on and have done your homework on. Just because grandpa had one doesn't mean you know what you need to know regarding the purchase of good hunting dogs. Good hunting dogs need to be disease from and have clean genetic lines, regardless the breed. Make sure routine worming has been done as a puppy—which has usually been done from two weeks. Also, look at their shot records—did they receive a two-week puppy shot series with only two weeks between them, beginning around five or six weeks? Once the puppy is weaned from its mother, its immune system becomes compromised, and it is up to the breeder to maintain that system up to eight weeks of age when it leaves the next. A breeder who sells before then is not worth his/her weight in salt. Good hunting dogs mean that—a good hunting dog, not one that is haphazardly bred to make a quick buck. Georgia is famous for good hunting dogs, as most Georgia hunters think more of their dogs than anywhere else, but make sure you don't get a bad breeder anyway. More info http://www.hunting-pro.com
About The Author
Graham Taylor author of http://hunting-pro.com
Canine Parvovirus - A Serious Cantagious Disease in Dogs
by: Jonni Good
Canine parvovirus, sometimes known simply as 'parvo,' is a serious contagious disease caused by a virus. This illness is spread when dogs come into contact with the feces of infected animals. Dog parks, highway rest stops and popular walking trails in cities are areas where dog feces are often found, and where an unvaccinated dog may pick up the virus. Humans may also unknowingly bring the virus home on the bottom of their shoes or on their car tires, so dogs who never go outside the yard can still be infected with this disease. The virus can live in the soil or other contaminated surfaces for as long as six months. Most animal shelters and kennels make every effort to avoid the spread of contagious diseases by cleaning the kennels with bleach, but any time that large numbers of animals are kept in close quarters, there is a possibility of infection, so keeping up on your dog's vaccinations is always a good idea. Although puppies are more commonly affected by this illness than adult dogs, both my brother and I once owned adult dogs who became seriously ill from canine parvovirus. Both animals had been vaccinated while in our care, but they were acquired after the dogs had reached adulthood, so they may not have received proper vaccination as puppies. Both dogs recovered, but only after several weeks of intensive in-hospital care. Since this virus attacks the lining of the dog or puppy's digestive system, the symptoms of the disease are diarrhea, vomiting, lethargy, lack of appetite, and bloody, foul-smelling stools. In addition to severe abdominal discomfort, bloody diarrhea and vomiting, the dog may also have a high fever, and congestive heart failure is possible. Severe symptoms may follow several days of gradually decreasing appetite. Illness usually becomes apparent from three to 12 days after the dog was exposed to the virus. Obviously, this is a very serious disease, and immediate medical care is required to reduce the risk of death. The veterinarian will make sure to keep the dog from becoming dangerously dehydrated, which can keep the dog or puppy alive long enough for its own immune system to fight the disease. Antibiotics are not effective against this virus, but they are usually given to an infected animal to help prevent the occurrence of secondary bacterial infections, which can cause shock or septicemia. Secondary infections can occur without antibiotics because parvovirus suppresses the dog's ability to make white blood cells. A blood test showing a low white blood cell count is one of the ways a veterinarian can make a diagnosis of canine parvovirus. Because the illness causes severe dehydration, the dog will also be put on intravenous fluids, and the animal will probably need to stay under the doctor's care a week or more. Because the gastrointestinal tract has been affected, the veterinarian may withhold food and water from the dog until the virus has come under control. Unfortunately, some dogs and puppies who survive a bout of parvovirus can be affected by symptoms six months or more after the original symptoms, particularly if the virus has infected the heart. To prevent infection, puppies must be vaccinated under the proper schedule, and they should not be taken outside the yard or introduced to any other dogs until at least two weeks after the last puppy shots are administered. Some veterinarians and dog breeders suggest that you avoid dog parks entirely, even after your puppy has been vaccinated, because of the possibility of picking up this or other contagious canine illnesses. If you adopt an older dog from the local shelter, you should take him to your veterinarian for a checkup and ask that he be vaccinated, unless the shelter administered routine vaccinations while the dog was in their care.
About The Author
Jonni Good writes about dog health and older dogs on her website at http://www.older-dog.com
Fido's Fortress: Puppy Proofing Your Home
by: Jennifer Jordan
It’s safe to say, my dog has me well trained. My “best friend” since she was six weeks old, my precious pup is now a fourteen year old peke-a-poo, missing teeth, missing vision, and missing manners. She growls at me whenever she wants MY dinner, she awakes me at three a.m. so I can give her a drink from my glass and free her from having to walk the ten steps to her water bowl, and she bites me whenever I accidentally touch her as she sleeps in our bed (90 percent of the bed, she has decided, belongs to her ten pound frame). Yes, it’s fair to say, when it comes to my dog, I am nothing if not obedient. I’d like to say it hasn’t always been like this; I’d like to claim that I once had the upper hand and behaved like, well, the superior species. But, the truth is, I never did. Even before I brought her home, I found myself running around and getting things ready for her arrival. I bought her everything she needed, stopping just short of getting her a diamond studded collar from Tiffany’s, and I puppy proofed my house; I puppy proofed my house like a maniac: there was no way my dog was going to get hurt in my, oh I’m sorry, her, home. This brings me to the topic of puppy proofing. As essential as it is, it’s not that hard to overlook; new dog owners might find themselves forgetting to make a safe environment as they become so wrapped up simply in loving their puppy. Still, puppy proofing your house helps you assure that you will have a puppy to love. So, before you bring home your new bundle of joy, try to engage in the following: Secure your cords: Like moths to flames, puppies have been known to flock towards electrical cords, placing them in their mouths, and chewing away. Not only does this ruin your cord, but it can give your puppy quite a shock. To avoid this, keep cords out of the area where your puppy will be. If it’s impossible to keep cords out completely – if your puppy is in the TV room, it might be hard to not have a cord for your plasma television – place them out of your puppy’s reach: hang them from something high, tape them to the wall, or purchase a wire cover. Guard your Balcony: All puppies have some Christopher Columbus in them: they like to explore. While this is often harmless, when a puppy starts to explore high areas, such as a deck or upstairs balcony, they run the risk of falling. Since you probably won’t be able to keep an eye on your puppy twenty four hours a day, buying a balcony guard is your best bet. A balcony guard allows your puppy to explore higher areas all while assuring that he or she won’t suddenly be thrown off course. Latch Your Cabinets: If there’s one thing puppies know how to do, it’s get into things they shouldn’t. Cabinets, particularly ones that house kitchen or bathroom trash, are prime goals for puppy pursuing. If successful in their venture, puppies can find things in cabinets that could harm them: household cleaners, chicken bones, mouse traps, bleach. Simply putting latches on your cabinets can assure your puppy won’t be able to open the door on this danger. Hang Your Plants: I remember my dog, as a puppy, had an affinity for getting into plants. Sometimes she would dig them up, sometimes she would pee on them, and sometimes – mistaking them for a salad bar – she would eat them. This, turns out, wasn't a good idea: some plants are edible, but others can be poisonous. Your veterinarian can provide you with a list of plants that are harmful to pets, including Aloe Vera, tomato plants, rhododendron, English Ivy, and mistletoe. Instead of leaving these, or any plants, on ground level, hang them from the ceiling. Chances are your puppy won’t figure out how to use a ladder. Puppy proofing your home can take time and money. But, it’s worth it all in the end. It helps us keep our best friend safe, which speaks to those of us who know that there is no such thing as “just a dog.”
About The Author
Jennifer Jordan is the senior editor for http://www.etodoors.com . Someone who changes her mind every five minutes, her house is in a perpetual state of home improvement.
It’s safe to say, my dog has me well trained. My “best friend” since she was six weeks old, my precious pup is now a fourteen year old peke-a-poo, missing teeth, missing vision, and missing manners. She growls at me whenever she wants MY dinner, she awakes me at three a.m. so I can give her a drink from my glass and free her from having to walk the ten steps to her water bowl, and she bites me whenever I accidentally touch her as she sleeps in our bed (90 percent of the bed, she has decided, belongs to her ten pound frame). Yes, it’s fair to say, when it comes to my dog, I am nothing if not obedient. I’d like to say it hasn’t always been like this; I’d like to claim that I once had the upper hand and behaved like, well, the superior species. But, the truth is, I never did. Even before I brought her home, I found myself running around and getting things ready for her arrival. I bought her everything she needed, stopping just short of getting her a diamond studded collar from Tiffany’s, and I puppy proofed my house; I puppy proofed my house like a maniac: there was no way my dog was going to get hurt in my, oh I’m sorry, her, home. This brings me to the topic of puppy proofing. As essential as it is, it’s not that hard to overlook; new dog owners might find themselves forgetting to make a safe environment as they become so wrapped up simply in loving their puppy. Still, puppy proofing your house helps you assure that you will have a puppy to love. So, before you bring home your new bundle of joy, try to engage in the following: Secure your cords: Like moths to flames, puppies have been known to flock towards electrical cords, placing them in their mouths, and chewing away. Not only does this ruin your cord, but it can give your puppy quite a shock. To avoid this, keep cords out of the area where your puppy will be. If it’s impossible to keep cords out completely – if your puppy is in the TV room, it might be hard to not have a cord for your plasma television – place them out of your puppy’s reach: hang them from something high, tape them to the wall, or purchase a wire cover. Guard your Balcony: All puppies have some Christopher Columbus in them: they like to explore. While this is often harmless, when a puppy starts to explore high areas, such as a deck or upstairs balcony, they run the risk of falling. Since you probably won’t be able to keep an eye on your puppy twenty four hours a day, buying a balcony guard is your best bet. A balcony guard allows your puppy to explore higher areas all while assuring that he or she won’t suddenly be thrown off course. Latch Your Cabinets: If there’s one thing puppies know how to do, it’s get into things they shouldn’t. Cabinets, particularly ones that house kitchen or bathroom trash, are prime goals for puppy pursuing. If successful in their venture, puppies can find things in cabinets that could harm them: household cleaners, chicken bones, mouse traps, bleach. Simply putting latches on your cabinets can assure your puppy won’t be able to open the door on this danger. Hang Your Plants: I remember my dog, as a puppy, had an affinity for getting into plants. Sometimes she would dig them up, sometimes she would pee on them, and sometimes – mistaking them for a salad bar – she would eat them. This, turns out, wasn't a good idea: some plants are edible, but others can be poisonous. Your veterinarian can provide you with a list of plants that are harmful to pets, including Aloe Vera, tomato plants, rhododendron, English Ivy, and mistletoe. Instead of leaving these, or any plants, on ground level, hang them from the ceiling. Chances are your puppy won’t figure out how to use a ladder. Puppy proofing your home can take time and money. But, it’s worth it all in the end. It helps us keep our best friend safe, which speaks to those of us who know that there is no such thing as “just a dog.”
About The Author
Jennifer Jordan is the senior editor for http://www.etodoors.com . Someone who changes her mind every five minutes, her house is in a perpetual state of home improvement.
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